Save the Weave
Save the Weave is a movement initiated by Isha Foundation to bring awareness globally and in India about the need to shift to natural fibres.India is home to more than 136 unique weaves, mostly in the form of sarees. Traditionally woven in cotton and silk, sarees are the backbone of Indian Handloom sector that is rapidly being replaced by machines and synthetic fibres.
The current generation of skilled weavers could be the last ones engaged in the handloom sector with the younger generation having moved on to newer industries.The techniques of cultivating organic cotton, preparatory processes for weaving, the intricacy of weaving styles, use of natural dyes in dyeing fabric and printing techniques are all inspired by culture and region.
This art form needs to be preserved so that the traditional knowledge is not lost. Traditionally, these sustainable methods have created their own ecosystems for empowerment of local communities, especially women.Global Consumption of synthetic fibre clothing is a huge concern today, impacting not only the environment but also people's health.
Why Save the Weave
A History of Indian Textiles
For a century during 1680-1780, Indian cloth was the most sought-after fabric in Europe, surging past even spices as the biggest export commodity. The English and Dutch imported a million pieces of cloth a year, and the French about 300,000.
Before the British Raj, weavers as a community commanded considerable bargaining power with merchants.
The East India Company passed laws that forbade weavers from buying raw material and enforced selling finished products only to the Company.
The Indian weaving industry was systematically dismantled. In 1834, the Governor General reported: “The bones of hand-weavers are bleaching the plains of India.”
The value of textile exports from India fell by 98% between 1800 and 1860 and the value of textile Imports increased by 6300% in the same period.
The Indian Textile Industry Today
The Indian textile industry is a major source of employment, second only to agriculture. Despite its substantial contribution to GDP and exports, the livelihoods of farmers, hand spinners, and handloom weavers have not significantly improved.
India boasts a rich textile heritage, with over 136 distinct weaves and numerous hand-dyeing and printing techniques. Sadly, around 55 of these weaves are endangered. While India is a major player in the cotton yarn trade, its share in global garment trade is only 4%.
Handloom, though a small percentage of textile production, provides jobs for 4.4 million weaver families, especially in rural areas. If the handmade textile market expands both nationally and globally, it has the potential to generate employment for millions more and actively participate in the $900 billion global textile and garment industry.
How to create awareness
It would be constructive if the Government of India runs a campaign (on the lines and scale of Swachch Bharat) to bring nation-wide awareness about the many fine aspects of our natural handmade textiles and their health benefits.As a part of the campaign, influencers and celebrities should be urged to commit to organic-handloom textiles in a way that at least 25% of their wardrobe consists of such fabrics.
Government school uniforms could be mandatorily cotton (preferably handloom or even khadi). Private schools should also be inspired and encouraged to adopt this as a policy. These initiatives would make an immediate impact on the demand for these fabrics and send a lot of out-of-work weavers back to their looms. Government employees, especially in the civil services and hospitality sectors, could be encouraged to use organic handloom and khadi apparel at least on certain days of the week which can be mandated as Organic Clothing Day.
If other corporate companies could be motivated to adopt such a policy within their companies it would be highly impactful. Wherever possible, unique textiles and weaves of each state can be incorporated into the design or uniform (particularly in industries such as airlines and hospitality).
Each state can rope in well-known designers and design houses to take on the role of ‘Textile Ambassadors’. Through their design ranges, they could play a significant part in showcasing some of the most quintessential fabrics of that state. These ambassadors can represent the state at various national and international events and prestigious avenues for exposure.
Every state in India is blessed with its own age-old traditional systems of weaves, prints and dyes. Until now, the onus of creating a market for these has been on state-run developmental agencies such as State-level Handloom Development Corporations and Apex Cooperatives with a handful of retail emporiums. These were successful in part but were unable to muster adequate business acumen and focus to sustain against the rigors of a market economy. Apart from this, scattered individual businesses have been operating in a largely unorganized sector. Procurement and retail sales have been on largely ad-hoc systems. Handloom fairs and exhibitions are the only regular platform for Indian weaves to get nation-wide exposure.To address this gap in the supply chain, one recommendation is to develop state-wise enterprises based on the Public–Private model. Each state-wise enterprise is then committed to creating a lively market for its own textiles/garments on a national and international scale. This enterprise should be entirely committed to natural textiles and therefore it is of utmost importance to create awareness and demand in the fashion circles of the world.
Indian embassies in cities with high fashion presence can be entrusted with the task of developing contacts with the design community and hosting events showcasing and introducing the local community to Indian textiles, weaves and clothing fashions. Top designers from India can be invited to such events. Business-to-business collaborations can be facilitated. Creating awareness of the environmental and health benefits of organic cotton should be a priority.
Tax incentives can be offered for exporters who work exclusively with handloom and khadi. What we may lose as taxes, we will gain through international exposure. Rare and dying weaves should be listed for greatest benefits.